Rescue Report

Helicopter Evacuation of Climber Injured by Avalanche

February 23 and 24, 2009
Half Dome, Northwest Face, "Death Slabs" approach

On February 23, 2009, a group of seven Korean mountaineers were attempting a winter ascent of the Direct Northwest Face (NWF) on Half Dome. The Korean team was utilizing the normal approach route to the NWF (commonly referred to by climbers as the “Death Slabs”). To facilitate the climbing effort the Koreans had fixed lines up most of 3,000-foot approach route, which was almost entirely covered with snow and ice.

One mountaineer, Jun Ho Wang, had been camped at the base of the wall with other members of his team. Recent warmer storms had brought rain up to around 6,500 feet, causing heavy water flow between the granite of the Death Slabs and the snow pack covering it.

Wang decided to descend the fixed lines alone to return to Yosemite Valley to obtain additional supplies. During Wang’s descent, an avalanche released above him. Wang was enveloped in the flowing debris and was swept an estimated 100 meters down the rock face. Luckily, Wang came to rest on the surface of the debris flow but during the slide he had sustained multiple life-threatening injuries.

Wang lay there alone until discovered late in the day by other members of his party who were sent down in search of him. The National Park Service was alerted at approximately 4:00pm. Via family band radio an English-speaking member of the group informed Rangers of the critical nature of the injuries, and requested assistance.

A spotter immediately went to Mirror Lake and was able to see what they believed was the injured climber. A ground team of five climbing rangers was prepared and deployed shortly before sunset. Immediately after leaving the forested area of the Death Slabs approach trail the team encountered heavy amounts of recent avalanche debris. Due to the unseasonably warm conditions and low elevation, the soft snow proved to be thigh deep under the weight of heavy packs. The team continued on to start fixing ropes for additional rescuers to begin shuttling supplies.

Shortly after finishing the first technical section of the approach, multiple avalanches could be heard in Yosemite Valley. The rescue team continued on through an area relatively protected from avalanches, fixing lines higher. From here, normal approach route continues to traverse to climber's left into the lower section of Bushido’s Gully. While the team accessed the gully, more large avalanches were heard. Because of considerable avalanche exposure beyond this point, the team staged the rescue gear there and retreated to the valley floor to wait for lower overnight temperatures to stabilize the snowpack.

A team of five high-angle rescuers ascended the Death Slabs again at 5:30am on Tuesday, February 24th. Near-freezing temperatures throughout the night had hardened the snow, reducing the danger of avalanches. The team retraced their ropes and continued to fix lines upwards. The team reached the injured climber in the morning hours and began a medical assessment. Two of the injured man’s climbing partners had stayed with him throughout the night, keeping him warm with extra sleeping bags that the rest of the team had left behind before they descended.

California Highway Patrol (CHP) A-Star Helicopter H-40 flew into Yosemite Valley at 7:00am and near-perfect conditions allowed them to insert additional rescuers and extraction gear into the Bushido Gully by hoist. Wang was hoisted from the mountain 15 minutes later and flown to Awahnee Meadow. Wang was rushed to the Yosemite Medical clinic for stabilization and shortly thereafter flown by PHI’s air-medical helicopter to Doctor’s Medical Center in Modesto. Field assessments indicated that Wang had sustained multiple traumatic injuries including a possible femur fracture, probable rib fractures, and severe back pain.

Contributions:
Ranger Keith Lober, Ranger David Pope