"Half Dome: Know Before You Go"
This six minute Half Dome hiking safety video on YouTube by Andres Estrada is a
must-watch for anyone planning to hike up Half Dome.
11-10
to 11-12-08 - Major Search for Missing Backpacker
A solo backpacker became stranded for twelve days in a remote area of
the Yosemite high country, snowed in by a signifcant winter storm. With
a search area of 400 square miles, YOSAR ground, air, and investigative
personnel tried to locate the starving backpacker. Click
here for report and photos.
6-3-08
- Air Evacuation of Critically Ill Day Hiker - Half Dome
ACUTE HYPONATREMIA, HELICOPTER RESCUE TIPS
A hiker on the Half Dome Trail just below the Sub Dome experienced
seizures and altered mental status. A rapid air evacuation was carried
out for the critically ill hiker. Click
here for report and photo.
11-20-07
- Climber Fall - Royal Arches Rappel Route
A climber rapelling the route fell and sustained life-threatening
injuries. Click
here for
report and photos.
11-11-07
- Climber Fatality - Cathedral Peak
STORM, FAILURE TO TURN BACK, INADEQUATE CLOTHING
In-depth and first-hand account of the tragic
weather-related mountaineering death of Peter Noble near Cathedral Peak
in Yosemite's Tuolumne Meadows, November 2007. A detailed climber's
account of the incident is followed by analysis from
YOSAR's SAR
gurus. Click
here for report and photos.
10-12-07
-
Serious Climber Injury / Church Bowl
BELAY FAILURE—NO STOPPER KNOT, MISSED CLUES, INATTENTION
A climber on top-rope was lowered off the end of the rope. This report
includes a first-hand account and analysis of the chain of events that
led to serious injury.
Click
here for report and interviews.
8-21-07
-
Half Dome Rescue - North West Face Route
In-depth analysis and interviews with climbers involved in 80-foot lead
fall on Half dome. Click
here for report and photos.
7-15-07
- Epic on Washington's Column
A pair of climbers retreating from The Prow became stranded without a
rope in technical terrain. Although they were rescued without help from
YOSAR, there are valuable lessons learned. Click
here for report.
5-17-07 -
Climber Fall - El Capitan, The Nose Route
CLIMBER'S LIFE LIKELY SAVED BY CLIMBING HELMET
A climber on pitch 17 of
the Nose took a long leader fall striking Eagle Ledge and sustaining
multiple injuries. The rescue method was a helo-hoist operation from
mid-face on the wall. Click
here for report and photos.
7-11
- 7-12-05 - Lead Climber Fall on Fairview Dome
LOOSE
HOLD—LATE
START, BENIGHTED WITHOUT LIGHT,
INADEQUATE CLOTHING
Nearing the top of Lucky Streaks, a
hand-hold broke off, dislocating the
leader's shoulder. An all-night
high-angle rescue was conducted from the summit. Click
here for
report.
7-05-05
-
Lead Climber Fall on Lembert Dome
FALL ON
ROCK—OFF
ROUTE, RUN OUT
Off route and run-out, a climber on Northwest Books was injured in a
30' lead fall, requiring rescue. Click here for
report.
6-16 -
6-17-05
- Stranded Climbers on Royal Arches
INADEQUATE PREPARATION, STRANDED WITHOUT STORM GEAR
A pair of climbers were benighted in a storm at the top of Royal Arches
without overnight gear. A night rescue was required to guide them to
the ground. Click here for
report.
10-19 - 10-21-04 -
Analysis of The Nose Fatalities
An
in-depth look at the choices and circumstances that led to the tragic
deaths of two climbers on The Nose. One of the most-read reports on our
site, for a reason. Click
here for extended
report.
9-29-03
- Lead fall due to loose rock - Lost Brother
FALLING ROCK - FALL ON ROCK, FAILED TO FOLLOW INSTINCTS
This is a detailed and engrossing first-hand account of a veteran
climber's lead fall due to loose rock on a seldom-visited route in
Yosemite Valley. This is must-read analysis about following your
instincts, placing gear, negotiating a lengthly rescue, and loose
rock. Click
here for report.
From Accidents in North American Mountaineering (ANAM)
6-2-03
- Climber injured due to rock fall - Middle Cathedral
FALLING ROCK - FALL ON ROCK
This ANAM accident report illustrates the importance of effective
communication between leader and follower, the dangers of loose rock to
seconds, and that climbing helmets save lives. Click
here for report.
From Accidents in North American Mountaineering (ANAM)
5-26-03 -
Big wall lead fall and rescue - Sunkist, El Capitan
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION
A first-hand big wall climber's account of his 80-foot lead fall on the
15th pitch of El Cap's Sunkist, VI 5.9 A4 that injured both him and his
belayer sufficiently to require immediate rescue. This report gives
useful details about airy gear placements as well as subtle details of
belay and Screamer setup that can prevent injuring your belayer. Click here
for report.
From Accidents in North American Mountaineering (ANAM)
9-24-02 -
50-foot lead fall on aid - El Cap, Mescalito
FALL ON ROCK - PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE FOOD
This is a move-by-move examination of a big-wall trio's epic on the
20th pitch of Mescalito. Click
here for report.
From Accidents in North American Mountaineering (ANAM)
9-15-02 - Head
injury during top-rope traverse - Daff Dome
FALL ON ROCK, INEXPERIENCE
A brief report highlighting a hazard of inexperienced top-rope climing.
Click here for
report.
From Accidents in North American Mountaineering (ANAM)
7-12-02 -
Double climber fatality - Middle Cathedral Rock
PROTECTION PULLED OUT - FALL ON ROCK
Investigation and analysis of double trad-climbing fatality that
possibly involved catastrophic achor failure on the Direct North
Buttress route. Click
here for report.
From Accidents in North American Mountaineering (ANAM)
5-14-02 -
Injury from pendulum lead fall - El Cap, The Nose
PROTECTION CAME OUT - FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION,
DARKNESS
Detailed account of the conditions, decisions and gear placements that
led an experienced team to call for help off El Cap. Click here for
report.
From Accidents in North American Mountaineering (ANAM)
9-23-01
- Head Injury From Lead Fall - Reed's Pinnacle
FALL
ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, PLACED
INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HELMET
A brief examination
of the gear placement decisions that led to a lead climbing injury on a
popular climbing route. Click
here for report.
From Accidents in North American Mountaineering (ANAM)
08-12-01
- Serious Injuries from Dislodged Rock - Gunsight Notch
FALLING ROCK - DISLODGED BY DAY-PACK, POOR
POSITION
A detailed account of a near-death situation caused by loose rock
dislodged by a climbing partner, this report describes the signs and
symptoms of severe internal bleeding. Click
here for report.
From Accidents in North American Mountaineering (ANAM)
8-12-01 -
Head Injury from Lead Fall - Pywiack Dome
FALL ON
ROCK, NO HELMET
This extremely brief
account of a lead fall on a sport route illistrates the importance of
wearing a climbing helmet. Click
here
for report.
From Accidents in North American Mountaineering (ANAM)
8-4-01 -
Leg Fractures from Icy Lead Fall - Half Dome
FALL ON ROCK
This
report is written from the rescuer's vantage point
during a helicopter-aided rescue of an injured climber on the Regular
Northwest Face of Half Dome. Your climbing route may become coated in
ice, even in August.... Click
here
for report.
From Accidents in North American Mountaineering (ANAM)
8-1-01 - Shoulder
Dislocation - Royal Arches Climbing Route
OFF
ROUTE - FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE
EQUIPMENT AND PROTECTION
YOSAR regularly responds to climbers that become stranded, lost or
injured while attempted to negotiate one of the several descent routes
off Royal Arches. This detailed account of one team's decisions
highlights several common issues seen on this route. Click
here for report.
From Accidents in North American Mountaineering (ANAM)
6-27-01 - Head Injury from
Dislodged Rock - Sentinel Rock
FALLING
ROCK - DISLODGED, NO HELMET, POOR
POSITION
This
is an
excellent, first-hand account of a serious injury caused by a loose
rock dislodged by the party during descent. It offers excellent advice
given by the climbers themselves.
Click here
for report.
From Accidents in North American Mountaineering (ANAM)
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