On the very early morning of Sunday, October 17, 2004, a severe early winter storm hit Yosemite National Park with four climbing parties high on the face of El Capitan on four different routes. The storm, although severe, had been forecast and was not unusual for the time of year.

YOSAR was aware that there were climbers on the face and the Valley District SAR Coordinators began monitoring the climbers' situation from the onset of the storm. Our greatest concern was for the two Japanese National climbers who were bivouacked at Camp 6, a small ledge 600 feet below the top of the Nose Route. All of the other teams had portaledges set up, which indicated that they were better able to protect themselves from the weather.

On Monday, October 18, at about 1400 hours, we observed a yellow tarp set up on the Camp 6 ledge during a brief respite in the storm. We were unable to establish communication with the Japanese climbing party. From the meadow below the face, we were unable to hear any calls for assistance from the wall. The weather at that time was such that we believe it should have been possible to hear anyone yelling, even from high on the face. Park rescue personnel were in contact with two of the other parties on the face via family band radio. Both teams stated that they were OK and declined rescue services.

At 0800 hours on Tuesday, October 19, the weather was still quite poor. After a conversation with the Valley Shift Supervisor regarding the welfare of the Japanese team, SAR Technician Greg Loniewski was assigned to hike to the base of the Nose to yell and see if he could elicit a response from the Japanse team. At the same time, arrangements were made to set up a PA system in the meadow below El Capitan and a telescope at Bridal Veil Straight, which is a good location to observe into the recesses of Camp 6.

Loniewski was unable to get any response to his calls. Using the SAR PA system with a Japanese climber who offered his assistance to translate, we were able to get a response which we believed to be from the Japanese team. Neither SAR personnel nor the volunteer interpreter could understand anything from the response. The response was barely audible and seemed to be a woman's voice. During most of our attempts to communicate with the Japanese team it rained and was quite windy, as evidenced by the rate clouds moved across the face. The rain and wind made communicating with the party high on the face nearly impossible.

Mid-morning (about 1100 hours) on Tuesday, a decision was made to intervene without a clear indication of distress from the Japanese team and no known request for assistance from them. We began setting up a management team and devising a plan. Ranger Horne was designated as the Incident Commander and Keith Lober the Operations Chief.

Around 1300 hours, during a short clearing in the clouds that had shrouded the upper face, we observed that the Japanese team had abandoned their bivouac and were ascending in the full fury of the storm. This seemed to indicate that the climbers were absolutely desperate. We believed this tactic was particularly dangerous. Sadly, it proved to be so.

We knew that heavy snows and high winds would make inserting rescue personnel by helicopter impossible. A light fast blitz up the East Ledges was not feasible as it would push the margins of safety, so it was ruled out. This meant the only option was a campaign-style ground assault with a grueling 11-mile approach hike. This overwhelmed even Yosemite National Park's massive SAR capabilities and a request for resources was placed with the California Office of Emergency Services.

In the interim, at about 1400 hours, Ranger Lincoln Else and two SAR technicians were tasked to hike to the top of El Capitan and to leave as soon as was practical with the goal of assisting the Japanese climbers should they successfully summit and need assistance. Meanwhile, the larger and better equipped team would follow in support.

At around 1630 hours we observed that the Japanese team had stopped climbing approximately a rope length above Camp 6 at what appeared to be a sling belay stance. We observed a yellow tarp; it appeared to be partially wrapped around the two climbers. The tarp was flapping in the wind ineffectually. We felt that this was a dire sign, indicating that they had deteriorated to the point of being unable to care for themselves or were already deceased.

A team of about thirty rescuers was assembled from park assets and the MRA teams supplied by the California Office of Emergency Services. Personnel began to hike in at 0400 hours on Wednesday, October 20.

The rescue team got into position at the top of El Capitan around 1100 hours. We were alerted via the family band radio to a solo climber on the Tempest Route who was now in trouble and requested a rescue. At almost the same time the storm began to relent and the skies began to clear. The park's helicopter was able to fly close enough to the face of El Capitan to clearly determine that the Japanese team was deceased. The climbers were slumped over and had ice and snow built up on their bodies. All rescue efforts were then diverted to the solo climber on the Tempest Route. His rescue was carried out and he was later flown off the summit by the park helicopter. Late in the day, during the Tempest rescue, we received a request from a climbing team on the Never-Never Land Route.

On Thursday, October 21 two strike teams were flown to the summit of El Capitan. Ranger Jack Hoeflich was assigned as Strike Team Leader of the Never-Never Land rescue operation. Keith Lober was assigned as Strike Team Leader of the team assigned to recover the bodies from The Nose. Operations were carried out without incident.

Read the The Nose Fatalities Analysis, an in-depth look at the choices and circumstances that led to these tragic deaths.

Read the El Capitan Rescues overall report.