Rescue of Climber Injured in Lead Fall
October 7, 2007
Royal Arches Climbing Route
At 12:06 PM a 911 phone call reported that a subject had sustained an approximate 20 foot leader fall on pitch 8 of the Royal Arches Climbing Route (5.7 A0, 16 pitches). The reporting party stated her partner had multiple fractures in his lower leg and that they would require a rescue. The reporting party was able to lower the injured lead climber back to the belay ledge.
At 12:20 PM the initial hasty rescue team was en route to the base of the climb. At 1:11 PM a YOSAR paramedic with the initial blitz team was on scene with the subject on the large ledge below the pendulum pitch. Additional rescuers responded to the ledge with the appropriate medical and patient packaging gear, and the needed technical gear for a lowering operation. Other rescuers fixed lines from the base of the climb to the patient’s location so they could be used to safely ascend with additional gear up the route.
Due to the subject’s condition, and the possible complications with lowering through the multiple ledge systems of the route, it was decided to short haul the subject from the route. Helicopter 551 was on standby for the incident. The patient was packaged in the left lateral position and transported to Awahnee Meadow by an unattended short-haul mission. The short-haul mission was completed at 3:15 PM and the subject was transported to Yosemite Medical Clinic for further evaluation.
A full accident report is to follow.
Contributions by SAR Technician David Pope. Edited by Nate Knight
SAR Siter Andy Hoeckel ascends with additional ropes to the subject's location. Photo By David Pope
Helicopter 551 lowers the end of the short haul line into the pitch 8 ledge. Photo By James Thompson
Rescuers Pope and Hoeckel wait for the H-551 spotter to give the hook signal. Photo By James Thompson
Rescuers Pope and Hoeckel clear the litter and gear as Ranger Lober calls the load and helo-rotor distance from the cliff. Photo By James Thompson