Incident

At about nine in the morning on Thursday, June 16th, 2005, two climbers started up the Royal Arches route in Yosemite Valley (5.7 A0, 15 pitches). Though neither climber had done the route before, they planned to complete it well before dark and descend by the North Dome Gully. Based on what they gathered from other climbers, the route was “relatively easy,” and the descent was straightforward. They brought one sixty meter rope, protection for the route, one synthetic jacket to share, and food and water for the day. Only one of the two climbers was comfortable leading, and they did not bring waterproof rain gear or any emergency bivy equipment.

Route finding proved harder than they expected, as did some of the climbing, and the team completed the route’s last pitch just before dark. Like many long routes in Yosemite, when Royal Arches “ends” just below the Valley rim, a short section of forth class climbing still remains before the actual summit. As it got dark the team could not find their way through this last section. Spring run off made the climbing more difficult than usual, and various off route “use trails” led them astray. To make matters worse, a storm front moved in and it began raining just after dark. Stuck just below the valley rim without warmth, rain gear, or bivy gear, the team decided to call for help.

Rescue              [incident]     [rescue]     [analysis]

Analysis              [incident]     [rescue]     [analysis]

Royal Arches has been climbed round trip in under and hour, but epics and rescues are common on this “easy” route. Why? Like many other “moderate” trad climbs, the route is frequently underestimated. While the technical climbing is relatively straight forward, the climb as a whole is far more challenging than its rating might indicate. The route finding is difficult, the level of commitment is high, and for many teams the descent is a larger challenge than the route itself.

Here are a few things that might have helped these climbers (and others) avoid needing a rescue:

- Bring emergency bivy gear. A fire starter and emergency blanket are small, light, and might save your life (or at least make a long night a bit more comfortable).

- Have a plan to retreat, and consider doing so sooner rather than later. Do you have a second rope to rappel? Are you comfortable route-finding in the dark?

- Check the weather and then bring warmth and rain gear anyway, especially on long and unfamiliar routes.

- Don’t depend entirely on the strength of one partner. In this scenario, only one climber was comfortable leading, which put the burden entirely on that climber’s shoulders.

- As always, know what you’re getting into; when looking for beta, get the “whole” story. The approach and descent are sometimes as challenging as the route itself, especially when it’s dark, you’re tired, and it’s raining. Had this team reached the Valley rim and begun the descent without a description of its whereabouts, they likely would have found themselves in an equally desperate situation.

This was not the first rescue for unprepared climbers on Royal Arches, and it likely won’t be the last. Let’s learn what we can from this incident and spread to the word to others; plan ahead, be prepared, and know what you’re getting into. Don't judge a route solely by it's rating.

Written by Lincoln Else
Yosemite National Park Climbing Ranger

[incident]     [rescue]     [analysis]